Japan Travel: Eight Outdated Myths That Are Rapidly Changing

With more tourists coming to Japan than ever, many websites offer advice about what to expect when you get here. Most of them read as if they’re written by people (or, ahem, software) who’ve never set foot in the country.

We’ve been producing Unseen Japan for almost seven years now. During that time, the country’s changed a lot – and continues to evolve.

Here are a few of the most prominent myths I’ve noticed other sources push about what tourists can expect in Japan, along with some observations from our followers on Bluesky.

Myth 1: Smoking is allowed everywhere

Status: False

Certainly, there was a time when it seemed everyone in Japan at a cafe, restaurant, or bar was lighting up. In 1966, around 83% of men in Japan said they smoked.

Those days, however, are long gone. Today, only around a quarter of men smoke – and only around 8% of women take up the habit.

What changed? There’s been a general trend – pushed by health agencies and anti-smoking advocates – to clean up Japan’s act. This culiminated in regulations passed by Tokyo prior to the 2020 (ultimately 2021) Olympics that banned smoking in most public places except small one-person or family-run operations. National regulations have also curtailed public smoking across the country.

Outside of small venues in Tokyo, coffee shops and restaurants that want a smoking area must keep it in a sealed-off and ventilated room. Smoking on the street in cities like Tokyo is banned outside of designated smoking areas.

You’re still likely to encounter places that allow smoking in the main room – like our favorite new karaage chicken joint or the amazing kissa Den in Tokyo’s Taito City. However, these are few and far between.

Myth 2: Weird vending machines selling weird stuff are legion

Status: Nope

Yes, there may be a vending machine in Akihabara that sells used women’s panties or something. And there are a few inventive ideas, like the automated flower shop vending machine at Shinjuku Station. But most vending machines here sell drinks.

The idea that you can buy anything from a vending machine got its start thanks to one or two silly examples. The global health crisis likely fueled it as restaurants that had been forced to close experimented with selling food.

Myth 3: Foreigners need to take pains to dress modestly

Status: No one cares lol

There’s a belief that Japan is a deeply conservative culture and, as such, your slutty Western ass better respect it and dress “modestly” (no bare shoulders, don’t wear shorts).

If you read UJ regularly, you know we’ve busted the myth of Japan as an ultra-conservative culture lacking any “Western woke” features, such as LGBTQ people or an active feminist movement, several times over. The country also has a thriving sex scene – both legal and illegal. It’s not like anyone’s demanding women walk around dressed in burkas.

That’s not to say there aren’t some expectations around public modesty. But no one’s holding you, as a foreign tourist, to them. Hell, as a resident, I wear shorts in summer all the time. It gets HOT here, people!

Be respectful, but also feel free to be yourself.

Myth 4: The JR Pass is a good deal

Status: Probably false, sadly

It’s arguable whether the JR Pass was ever a good deal. Depending on your itinerary, it could be. However, many tourists mistakenly buy the Pass thinking it gives them carte blanche to travel freely around Japan. In fact, as its name suggests, the JR Pass is only good on Japan Rail Group lines – and then only on select regular trains and Shinkansen bullet trains.

And this was before Japan Rail Group announced a 69% price hike for the JR Pass. Now, unless you plan to make at least two Shinkansen round-trips between Tokyo and Osaka in a seven-day period, it makes more financial sense to buy tickets a la carte. You can also look at the regional passes, such as the JR East Pass for exploring the Tohoku region.

(By the by, if you’re looking for Shinkansen tickets for your trip to Japan, we recommend using this service from our friends at Inbound Platform. We’re an affiliate, so we get a share of that at no additional expense to you. That aside, we recommend Inbound Platform for their ease of use and well-rated English language customer service.)

Myth 5: You need cash everywhere

Status: Probably not

Japan used to be way, way behind the cashless payments curve. But a little public health crisis that rhymes with “My Sharona” and the emergence of cashless payment app PayPay changed the game.

Sadly, Japan’s “QR code” apps are reserved for residents. However, as a tourist, you’ll be able to pay for most things these days with a credit card or an IC transportation card, such as Suica or PASMO. Tourists can buy a Welcome Suica card, while iPhone users can easily add a virtual Suica or PASMO to their phones and recharge them via credit card using Apple Pay.

You’re likely to see even more cashless options emerge in Japan in the near future. For example, more train lines are experimenting with credit card tap payments.

Update: I’ve gotten pushback on this point from a few travelers. It’s fair to say that, if you go outside of Japan’s major cities or to non-tourist areas, you’re more likely to encounter a lot of smaller shops that are still cash-only. I’ll admit that, as a resident, I’m more shielded from this, as more of the country’s cashless options are available to me.

Bottom line: This is changing, but still bring cash as a backup, especially if you plan to visit less popular tourist spots or venture outside of tourist-heavy areas.

Myth 6: All onsen ban tattoos

Status: Slowly changing

The historical link in Japan between tattoos and criminality means the inked are traditionally forbidden from entering hot springs or public baths. Some onsen owners still hold to this notion. Others believe that tattoos are unsanitary and could contaminate the water.

However, money is a powerful motivator to abandon old prejudices. With more tourists pouring into Japan than ever, many onsen are either allowing bathers to cover their tattoos with sleeves or are dropping this prohibition altogether.

Beppu, a popular onsen destination in Oita Prefecture, publishes a map of tattoo-friendly locations for tourists. The entirety of Kinosaki Onsen in Hyogo is also tattoo-friendly.

Myth 7: The trains always run on time

Status: Never true in the first place

There’s this myth that Japan is so fanatical about customer service and punctuality that train conductors will commit seppuku on the train platform (sorry, houmu) if a train arrives more than two minutes late. But Stuff Happens and trains don’t always arrive on time.

Sometimes, the reason for a delay is tragic – i.e., an attempted train suicide. Other times, it’s comical – like when a Buddhist monk delayed a Shinkansen train by 37 minutes because he jumped onto the tracks to retrieve his smartphone. On my first-ever visit here, the Yamanote line had a huge delay because a pillar randomly fell across the track.

The trains here are usually on time. But, yeah, sometimes they’re late – and most people have learned to live with it.

Myth 8: Japan is expensive

Status: Where does this one come from?!

If you stick to tourist traps like Niseko or fancy five-star sushi restaurants, you’ll likely spend a pretty penny. However, it’s never been expensive to get good food and drink in Japan. With the weak yen, it’s cheaper for most travelers than ever.

With that said, Japan is actively debating charging two-tier pricing for tourists. However, this is likely to impact things like popular tourist attractions, particularly historical spots.