“How about some bubuzuke?”
Eating ochazuke (お茶漬け; bubuzuke in Kyoto dialect), a dish of tea poured over rice, is a traditional meal-ending palette-cleanser in Japan. In Kyoto, though, if a proprietor asks if you want bubuzuke, what they’re actually saying is, “Get the hell out.”
This is Kyoto’s so-called “culture of unkindness,” or ikezu-bunka (いけず文化) – and the subject of a recent sold-out event in the city that put people’s ability to read between the lines to the test.
For the citizens of Kyoto, ikezu-bunka consists of statements that contain an underlying meaning. As one resident puts it, telling someone, “That’s a nice kimono you’re wearing” might actually mean, “That kimono doesn’t suit you one bit.”
Even Japanese people might not pick up on these subtle digs, as visitors to Kyoto won’t typically get the same treatment as locals. People who’ve lived in Kyoto for years even say they might not pick up on the true meaning of a statement until someone calls them out on it.
One woman who moved to Kyoto 10 years ago told NHK, “You can get along here pretty well if you don’t think about it too deeply.”
Maybe that’s why an event in Kyoto at a long-time Japanese hand-fan maker that put people’s skills to the test drew such a good crowd.
Held inside Ohnishi Tsune Shoten and planned by Nai Inc., the event let groups enter and take a crack at reading the true intentions of the shop proprietress (女将; okami). A group from LiveDoor News said they immediately found themselves wondering whether they should perform basic tasks, such as taking off or leaving on their slippers.
It took exactly one minute and 20 seconds for the okami to say, “How about bubuzuke?” and toss the group out into the garden.
Each group that enters could confer amongst themselves as to what they did wrong and try again. Participants could take five stabs at running the full gauntlet of ikezu bunka.
Contestants who made it to the end got some nice tea and dessert. But, says the reporter, no one in attendance felt like they could ever relax.
For her part, the folding fan store proprietress views ikezu as a highly interesting aspect of Kyoto culture. “I want to do more to promote specific elements of Kyoto culture beyond just folding fans.”
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