When you think of monkeys in Japan, you no doubt imagine those gray-furred, pink-faced monkeys lounging in steaming hot springs surrounded by picturesque snowy cliffs. These are snow monkeys, or Japanese macaques (Nihon zaru; ニホンザル). As its name suggests, snow monkeys are the only northern-most dwelling primate, able to withstand snowy winters and below-freezing temperatures. Moreover, they’re also an important fixture in Japanese folklore and culture.
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What is the Snow Monkey?
Snow monkeys live in large groups called troops with two distinct hierarchies for males and females. Their range extends from the northern Shimokita Peninsula all the way to southern Yakushima Island. They maintain harmony within the troop through grooming, and form very tight-knit relationships with their kin. Snow monkeys are omnivores, and their diet mostly consists of seeds, fruit, and over 200 varieties of plants[2]. Their thick fur helps them weather temperatures as low as -4 °Fahrenheit, or -20° Celsius.
Imanishi Kinji and Snow Monkeys Research
Imanishi and his students conducted research in Japan and abroad. In doing so, they pushed the boundaries of known scientific research methodology. Share on XUnsurprisingly, snow monkeys are quite intelligent. Scientists the world over have flocked to Japan to observe and research them. At the frontier of Japanese primate research was anthropologist and ecologist Imanishi Kinji (1902-1992).
Imanishi pioneered the theory that certain animals with long-lasting social groups, like primates, formed their own “culture” like humans do[3]. Monkeys, for instance, were more than capable of creating and maintaining rituals of their own. This harmonistic approach to primatology gave Japanese and international scientists a new, anthropomorphic lens through which to analyze and appreciate primates and other creatures.
Imanishi and his students conducted research in Japan and abroad. In doing so, they pushed the boundaries of known scientific research methodology.
On Koshima Island in Kyushu, Imanishi diverted from the traditional hands-off observation and fed the monkeys sweet potatoes to make them more used to humans. One snow monkey washed her yam in the river. Finding her snack tasted much better without sand on it, she washed it again. Other monkeys followed suit. Just like in Jigokudani, this behavior was passed on to the next generations, giving credence to Imanishi’s theory on animal culture.
Snow Monkeys in Japanese Mythology and Culture
Given their behavior and intelligence, it’s no surprise snow monkeys also feature prominently in Japanese folklore. A snow monkey tags along with the intrepid boy hero Momotaro and his menagerie of animals on his quest to vanquish the evil denizens of Demon Island.
Not all monkeys in myth are heroic, however. Monkey yokai called sarugami (literally “monkey god”) appear in tales as vicious, dangerous beasts that would occasionally don human clothing and kidnap a hapless maiden or two[4]. The Hiyoshi Taisha Shinto shrine in the Hiei Mountains is home to the divine monkey messenger Masaru, who helps protect supplicants against misfortune.
Koshin and the Three Wise Monkeys
The wordplay with the negative verb ending zaru and the Japanese word for monkey saru gave birth to the famous three wise monkeys. Share on XDoes the popular maxim “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil” ring a bell? In Japanese, the phrase goes mizaru, kikazaru, iwazaru. The wordplay with the negative verb ending zaru and the Japanese word for monkey saru gave birth to the famous three wise monkeys.
These monkeys derive from the esoteric Koshin religion, a Taoist faith with Shinto and Buddhist hues popular during Japan’s middle ages[5]. The most famous depiction of the three wise monkeys is carved above the entrance to the Tōshō-gū Shrine in Nikko, Tochigi prefecture.
Koshin adherents believed the human body was home to Sanshi (三尸), three demonic “worms” intent on quickening the death of their host. Much like Christianity’s Recording Angels, the Sanshi took note of all the good and bad deeds its host committed.
Every sixty days on Kōshin-machi, believers would perform rites to stave off evil. People with a troubled conscience attempted to stay awake the entire night to prevent the Sanshi from leaving to report their deeds to the god Ten-tei. Those with nothing to fear slept soundly through the night, knowing the Sanshi wouldn’t leave their bodies. Like the three wise monkeys, people hoped the Sanshi would neither see, hear or speak of none of their moral failings.
Where to See Snow Monkeys
As of this writing, Japan has closed its borders to international travel indefinitely. But there’s no harm in adding a visit to some snow monkeys to your future Japan trip itinerary. Here are some places to catch snow monkeys in action (or inaction, in the case of the bathing monkeys):
Jigokudani Monkey Park
Interestingly enough, these snow monkeys didn't always bathe in the hot springs. Share on XThere are various jigokudani, or “hell valleys” all over Japan worth visiting. However, you can only find the bathing snow monkeys at Jigokudani Monkey Park. The park and hot spring resort is nestled in the volcanic region of the Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park in Nagano prefecture. It’s best to visit in winter for the picturesque snowy scenery. Unlike other monkey parks (yaen koen; 野猿公園), Jigokudani doesn’t allow guests to feed the monkeys.
Interestingly enough, these snow monkeys didn’t always bathe in the hot springs. The story goes that in 1963, one of the apples provided by park staff to feed a group of monkeys rolled into the water[3]. A young monkey dashed after it. When it realized the water was warm, it returned to take a dip. Intrigued, some younger monkeys followed suit.
The younger monkeys learned from the adults. And over time, the troop incorporated bathing into their daily routine. Concerns over hygiene prompted the park to construct a separate monkey-only onsen in 1967. By then, bathing became an ingrained behavior and part of the troop’s culture, skyrocketing them to national and international stardom.
Arashiyama Monkey Park
If you’re in Kyoto, you can make the trek to Iwatayama Monkey Park on Mount Arashima. Since it’s on a mountain, be prepared for quite the hike. The views, however, are more than worth it.
The park hosts a troop of close to 120 free-roaming monkeys. Most of them are wild. Visitors also have a chance to feed monkeys apple slices provided by the park. As these monkeys are semi-wild, some care is in order. The park has signs telling visitors to avoid making eye contact with the monkeys. Observers should also keep a close eye on personal belongings.
Chubusangaku National Park
Concerned about the ethics of animal parks? Or just don’t like overcrowded tourist spots? Don’t fret! Those seeking a more organic interaction can visit one of Japan’s many national parks.
Chubusangaku National Park in the Japanese Alps is a prime destination to see all kinds of wildlife, including snow monkeys. If you’re lucky, you can catch snow monkeys swinging from trees, eating bark, or monkeying around (pun intended).
Yakushima
Yakushima is an island in Kagoshima Prefecture that’s home to an estimated 10,000 snow monkeys. Yakushima’s snow monkeys are actually one of two confirmed subspecies of Japanese macaque. These island snow monkeys are smaller with thicker grey fur and black hands and feet.
In the past, Yakushima farmers would exterminate any monkeys damaging their orange crops. Present-day farmers mostly rely on electric fences to deter foraging monkeys.
It’s not uncommon to see snow monkeys along Yakushima’s Seiburindou Road or in Yakushima National Park. If you’re looking to see snow monkeys in as natural a habitat as possible, then Yakushima’s your best bet.
As always, we recommend doing your research before visiting any snow monkey destination, especially yaen koen. The snow monkey isn’t considered an endangered species, although they too suffer from habitat destruction.
So if you’re outside Japan and can’t see snow monkeys just yet, rest assured. The monkeys aren’t going anywhere.
What to Read Next
Jigokudani: A Look at Japan’s Volcanic “Hell Valleys”
Sources
[1] Monkeys have accents too. ABC Science
[2] Japanese macaque. Wikipedia
[3] “What Japan’s Wild Snow Monkeys Can Teach Us About Animal Culture.” Smithsonian Magazine
[4] “Sarugami.” Yokai.com
[5] Kōshin. Wikipedia
