Frequent readers know that there’s nothing I love like a good Japanese cafe or kissa. And Tokyo is home to a dizzying array.
Many kissa try and capture the original Taisho or Showa-era feel in which these types of eateries and coffee shops were born. Others – inspired, no doubt, by Japan’s maid and concept cafes – push the edge with interesting themes, decore, and even themed food.
One of my favorites is a little hidden place off of Ikebukuro Station’s South Gate. Here’s a tour of what to expect from Alice in an Old Castle, along with a survey of five other intriguing themed cafes to try out on your next trip.
Alice in an Old Castle: An Ikebukuro Wonderland
Like most Tokyo cafes, unless you’re looking for Alice in an Old Castle (古城の国のアリス; kojou no kuni no arisu), you’ll miss it. About a 10-minute walk from Ikebukuro’s South Gate, it’s tucked, appropriately, into the basement floor of the Suzuwa Building. The store is tourist-friendly, with a QR code-driven menu available in multiple languages.
Inside, you’re greeted by a non-copyright-infringing atmosphere featuring familiar iconography from Lewis Carroll’s original story of Alice.
Large parties that reserve it ahead of time can utilize the store’s centerpiece table, the Big Chandelier, which seats up to six. There’s also a Magic Mirror Room for six and a Red Bedroom that seats up to 16.
The store also has tables in the open as well as cozy booths for two, making it an ideal location for both a girls’ day out as well as a romantic lunch or dinner spot.
One of the most fun aspects of Alice in an Old Castle’s menu is its birthstone mocktails. All alcohol-free, there’s one for each month done in that birthstone’s color. The drinks come with illuminated ice cubes among the ice, making it as fun to stir as it is to drink.
The menu consists of lunch food as well as Japan’s famously huge cafe desserts. They include Alice-themed items, such as a Cheshire Cat-styled pasta, as well as an afternoon tea dessert set that’s perfect for two or more.
Warning: The desserts here are themselves a meal and are best shared. The first time I went, I was by myself, and foolishly ordered this ice cream and fruit parfait. (I did not finish it.)
Despite the growing crowds, Ikebukuro is one of my favorite places in Tokyo. Between the awesome shopping in Sunshine City, the celebration of anime and manga culture, the massive Junkudo Books, and the great cuisine at fun places like Alice in an Old Castle, it’s a fun place to while away an afternoon.
Address: Toshima City, South Ikebukuro 2-16-8, Suzuwa Building B1
Hours: Lunch from 12pm to 2:30pm; dinner from 5pm to 10pm. Served everyday
Cost: 1,500 yen (lunch) to 3,000 yen (dinner) per person; 550 yen seating charge
Payment: All credit cards and all forms of Japanese electronic money, as well as WeChatPay and Alipay
Reservations: Yes, and recommended. Reserve today on TableCheck
Website: Alice in an Old Castle
Five other uniquely-themed Tokyo cafes
As we’ve covered before, getting into a cafe in Tokyo – especially on the weekends – can be an exercise in frustration. To give you some options, here are a few more cafes with offbeat themes located around the city.
Detective Cafe (探偵カフェ; tantei kafe)
Want something with a more Sherlock Holmes theme? They got that in Ikebukuro too! The Tantei (Detective) Cafe is a bar/cafe with a whodunnit feel. During their bar time, they also offer a host of detective-related activities, such as a wiretapping kit, a fingerprinting kit, and a memorial photograph in the bar’s body outline. One downside – it’s unclear if the cafe offers much in the way of English-language support.
Address: Toshima City, Ikebukuro 2-47-12, Dai-2 Kizuna Building, 9th Floor. About 3 minutes from Ikebukuro’s West Exit (North)
Hours: 11:30am to 5:30pm (cafe time) on weekends; 7pm to midnight on Mondays and Sundays; 7pm to 5am on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays
Cost: 4,000 to 5,000 yen per person. 1,000 yen per person bar time charge
Payment: Credit card and electronic money
Reservations: Yes
Website: Tantei Cafe (Japanese)
CSG Blue Cafe Aoyama
As you might imagine from its name, this cafe in Minato City’s ritzy Aoyama neighborhood is very, very blue. The shop’s signature drinks, made with ingredients such as spirulina and butterfly peas, are also blue and include a blue ginger lemonade and a blue chocolate mint latte. Visitors can chow down on vegan and gluten-free cookies or partake of the store’s specialty gelato. (Naturally, there’s a blue mint milk gelato.)
Address: Minato City, Minami-Aoyama 5-12-27 WISE512
Hours: 11am-10pm. Closed from 12/31 to 1/2.
Cost: 1,000-2,000 yen
Payment: Card, electronic money, QR code
Reservations: No
Website: CSG Blue Cafe | Curensology
2D Cafe
It might be a little played out (and busy AF), but I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the 2D Cafe. The trendy spot in Shin-Okubo sports both a decor and desserts rendered In thick lines that give everything a flat feel like you just stepped into a drawing. The menu is mainly drinks – including tea, coffee, and bubble tea – plus ice cream, fruit, and cakes.
Just be warned: unless you get there super-early, you’re probably going to be waiting a while.
Address: Shijuku City Hyakunincho 1-7-5 Za Building 1F (Short walk from Shin-Okubo Station)
Hours: 11am-11pm
Cost: 1,000-2,000 yen
Payment: Card, electronic money, QR code
Reservations: No
Cafe Pulataku
Do you love trains? Then we’ve found your cafe! It’s a bit of a trip to get out to Katsushika City on Tokyo’s east edge. But there are some interesting sites and cafes out there, including this one centered around model trains. The store serves a little food – including Naporitan and shrimp pilaf – alongside a selection of drinks and train-themed desserts, like their train car ice cream.
Address: Katsushika City Takasago 3-8-16
Hours: 10am to 7pm; closed Wednesdays
Cost: 1,000 yen
Payment: Credit card, electronic money, QR code
Reservations: No
Website: Cafe Pulataku
Tír na nÓg
Nestled into a corner of Ginza, you’ll find the Celtic-themed underground bar and cafe Tír na nÓg, the self-declared “paradise of the fairies and gods.” Besides a number of custom cocktails and mocktails, you’ll find coffee, tea, and some eats in the form of fairies pudding, quiche, and an American Waffle Plate (it’s quite good).
Address: Chuo City, Ginza 5-9-5 Cheers Ginza B1F
Hours: 11am to 4am; 11am to 11pm on Sundays. Closed yearly from 12/31 to 1/4
Cost: 2,000-3,000 yen daytime; 4,000-5,000 yen evening
Payment: Credit card, electronic money, QR code (PyaPay, d-Barai)
Reservations: Yes (reserve online at HotPepper)
Website: Tír na nÓg
Tip This Article
We’re an independent site that keeps our content free of paywalls and intrusive ads. If you liked this story, please consider a tip or recurring donation of any amount to help keep our content free for all.
What to read next
Japanese Shrine Bans Tourists, Laments “Destruction of Japanese Culture”
A beautiful shrine on the island of Tsushima has dropped the ban hammer after what it calls an “unforgivable act of disrespect.”
Tokaido Shinkansen to Add “Half-Private” Luxury Seat Option in 2027
JR Tokai says it’s adding even more luxury options to some runs of its critical line between Tokyo and Osaka.
Six Great Book Cafes in Tokyo to While Away Your Time
Looking for a space to relax in Tokyo? Check out these not-so-crowded cafes that combine good coffee with a book lover’s aesthetic.
